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Tuesday, May 8, 2007

Denmark: Salt Restaurant, Admiral Hotel, Copenhagen



Agent Triple P hasn’t stayed in Copenhagen for some time so was glad to be back in one of his favourite European cities recently.

The hotel only has one restaurant and one of their greatest tricks is to transform a rather sterile, canteen like interior, used for breakfast, into a pleasant, nicely lit evening venue. The wooden beams left from its incarnation as an eighteenth century warehouse help the interior. But the effect is mainly done by covering the basic tables with cloths and clever lighting, something the Scandinavians are very good at.

When Agent Triple P and his companion sat down they were given an enormous platter of dark and light bread, olives, vegetable chips and cashew nuts whilst they perused the menu. There was so much that, arguably, you didn’t actually need to order anything else.

The restaurant perhaps tries too hard in its choice of dishes. Supposedly Mediterranean it is one of those places that flings together different ingredients in the hope they will work together. Our starters exemplify this perfectly: I had Salt cured Baltic Salmon with Avocado, Swede and Soy Sauce. The Swede and avocado were combined into a mousse and laid out in three strips on the plate. The salmon was placed on top with a pepper crust and served with a hot frothing soy sauce. It was better than it sounded. My companion had baked beetroot with blue cheese, chocolate sauce and quails eggs.

For a main course I had a perfectly cooked (i.e. hardly cooked at all) Jersey rib with white beetroot and a pepper salsa. My guest had fried Zander with chorizo, squid and confit of leek.

The wine list was quite good without being overpowering. There were half a dozen wines from each of the main areas of the world and we chose a Beringer Fumé Blanc.

All in all not a bad meal for a business hotel and the service was excellent. Some of the dishes were a bit peculiar and it would be tough if you didn’t like beetroot as it seemed to appear in every dish.

The only problem with food in the hotel is that they don’t serve anything after 10.00pm. Not in the restaurant and not even in the bar (not even nuts). There is room service but that’s it.

Atmosphere 6/10
Wine list 6/10
Food 6/10
Service 7/10

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